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Gouda Leiden

Netherlands/Berlin Trip - Kaagsdorp      8th July:

    A cold grey morning greeted us. The heavens looked as though they were going to open. I went for my early morning shower, and as I was about to leave the solitary shower, the rains started to hammer down on the club house. I hung around for ages before returning.
    The issue we had to deal with this morning was getting out of our box in the marina by 09:30 in order to arrive in time for a bridge opening, but we had insufficient room behind us to reverse out due to a raft of boats behind us. I had mentioned this to the harbour master. "Don't worry," he said, "I will soon move them," he added with a mischievous grin.
    As the appointed hour approached, I went to inform the harbour master that our departure was imminent, and by chance I met a young woman from the nearest boat, the one that needed to move. "Goedemorgen, spreekt u Engels?" I asked. "Yes, I speak English," she replied. I explained to her our need to extract our boat imminently, and wondered if she would mind moving it for a short while. "No problem," she replied, "My husband and I will take it further up the marina so that you can get out." I thanked her enthusiastically, and within a couple of minutes they had motored further along, and Meryl and I managed to walk Duonita out of the box.
    Within a few more minutes we were back in the Nieuwe Gouwe, passing a huge barge disgorging its cargo of soil, and then rounding the corner into the Gouwe where we tied up at a waiting place for the rail and road bridges to open. We were joined by a German, a Dutch and a French yacht. Large barges passed up and down the Gouwe as we waited, some entering or leaving the Nieuwe Gouwe.
    Once through the bridges, we moved as a convoy up through the Gouwe, encountering many more bridges which were opened up as and when boats required to pass.
container_depot
Container Depot for Barges
    The land on either side of us lay well below the canal level, often criss-crossed with endless lines of ditches. Cattle grazed nonchalantly and waved their tails as we glided past.
    Torrential downpours reduced visibility, so much so that one of our convoy chums put his navigational lights on. By strange coincidence, each time Meryl and I needed to jump into action such as approaching a bridge, the gods looked unfavourably on us and showered us with torrents of rain. Rex decided to make an adjustment to one of the windscreen wipers, and managed to break it in the process. A born engineer, our Rex.
bridge_hoisting
Bridge Hoisting
    Attractive little villages slipped by, many houses their own slipways on which the owners' gleaming boats sat.
    The odd barge or two met us on the way, pulling a wake along them that rolled along the tops of the dykes and also rocked Duonita alarmingly in the narrow waterway.
    We were hampered somewhat by the German yacht, which lost confidence every time a bridge or barge was encountered, slowing down or even reversing without looking at the craft around him. Despite this, international relations were not broken.
    We turned off the Gouwe at Alphen aan den Rijn, and entered the Oude Rijn waterway. As we traversed the town, we came across a string of contiguous bridges. It was at one of these bridges that all four craft were gilling about, waiting for it to open. Then, to Rex's horror, a large barge came up behind us. This created mayhem, scattering all the yachts in all directions out of the way of this silent, hovering, intruding monster. We had less room to manoeuvre, and tried to tie up to a post, but the wind was playing havoc with the boat. Our bow swung round over someone's garden. The owner of the garden, an elderly lady, came out of her home. "It is so difficult," she piped up with a cheery face. "Do you want some help?" It was very kind of her, but we had to fend for ourselves on this one.
    Eventually, we got through the bridges, and turned up into the Heimanswetering, which brought us out into a large expanse of water, the Braassemermeer. At the northern exit of this Meer, we entered the Oude Wetering. At the far end we encountered a T-junction. Four years earlier, Rex, Alan and I had turned right here to head up to Amsterdam. Today we turned left into Ringvaart van de Haarlemmermeerpolder. This waterway marked the boundary between North Holland and South Holland. The South Holland side of the waterway had a long length of its banks festooned with water craft. Many must have had permanent moorings since they had neat little gardens established beside them. Acres of greenhouses came into view, with a small cruise vessel tied up to the banks beside the complex. No doubt all the old dears on it were being given a tour around a flower producing farm.
busy_waterway
Busy Waterway for the Convoy
    A large motorway and rail link crept over the low horizon, and slipped underneath our watery route, only to appear again on the other side; clever folk the Dutch. We skirted the top end of the Kagerplassen, a Dutch term meaning "the Kaag Lakes". The Kaag Lakes are an interconnected system of smaller fenland lakes and waterways. The area is popular for boating, water sports, fishing, camping and walking. Windmills, waterfront pasture land with grazing animals, quaint Dutch boats and buildings and (in season) flower fields are all part of the charm of boating and walking in this area. The lakes are home to several sailing schools. The oldest sailing school is 't Vossenhol, founded in 1947 and situated on the Dieperpoel. In 1952 sailing school De Kaag was founded.
    We followed the Ringvaart van de Haarlemmermeerpolder around a sweeping corner, but were immediately confronted with a sequence of three bridges that abutted each other. Again much gilling about in the wind was required, but at last we saw the bridges open in quick succession. Immediately they were open, a convoy of vessels sped through heading south, at such a pace that our convoy of four were forced to scatter in all directions. The oncoming vessels just ploughed through the middle of us. Once they had passed through, all four yachts headed towards the open bridges, only to see them close before our eyes. The German captain threw his hands in the air, turned around and sped off back in the direction from whence we had come. We and the other two boats tied up to a waiting staging area and checked out the bridge opening times. We discovered that the bridge opens alternatively for north bound, and later south bound traffic. We would have to wait another four hours for our north bound slot. After an extraordinary general meeting, we too decided to head back to the Kaagsdorp marina and pitch up there for the night.
dragon_head
Dragon Head
    On arrival at the marina, I sought out the harbour master. There was no sign of him at his office. A helpful lady explained he was working at the other side of the building. I walked around and found a gang of guys repairing the hedge and fencing that separated the marina from the Ringvaart. "Waar is de havenmeister?" I asked the first chap I came across. "He is the small one over there," he laughed, pointing to a small, wiry, tanned and weather-beaten fellow who was screwing some decking boards to a post. I explained we needed a berth for the night. "How deep is your boat?" he asked. Strange I thought, the normal question is how long is your boat. "Just over a metre," I replied, which seemed to satisfy him, and he pointed out an empty box just across the water from his office.
    Soon we were moored up in a box way too big for Duonita. In short time I discovered from the chap who ran the marina restaurant that the nearest shops were a short car ride away. In addition, in order to make an excursion to Leiden, we would need to get the ferry across the Ringvaart, take a bus to Nieuw-Vennep, and then take a train down to Leiden.
    Around 7pm we sauntered down to the little bar and restaurant that served the marina. The harbour master was sitting at the bar enjoying his tea. Observing that he had an interesting combination on his plate, I asked him what he was eating. "Varkens sate," he replied (pork sate). "I recommend the spare ribs," he added. Hmmm.... so why was he eating the sate? We made our choices and tuned into the German and Dutch conversations around us. As far as I could tell, we were the only British around. The food was good and reasonably priced.
dragon_boat
Dragon Boat
    As we ate we spotted a gaggle of folk outside on the grass doing exercises. A short while later, the same crowd were slowly carrying an elegant "Dragon Boat" down to the water, gently float it out, and climb in. They were a young, motley crew, comprised mainly of females. One lady sat at the front and struck up a beat on a drum tied to the deck in front of her. An older chap stood at the rear of the boat and bellowed out instructions whilst handling a long tiller. Slowly the boat rotated under his command, and then they were off, all paddling in time to the drum, and at a fair pace across the marina. The harbour master explained the team were off on a training exercise around the island. They occasionally raced in competitions. We heard the sound of the drum recede into the distance.
meryl_on_a_mission
Meryl on a Determined Mission to Kill Mosquitos, Deet in Hand
    The Dragon Boat Festival is called Duan Wu Jie in Chinese, Jie meaning festival. The festival is celebrated on the 5th day of the 5th month of the Chinese lunar calendar. The 5th month of the Chinese lunar calendar is traditionally considered an evil month and the 5th of the month is particularly a bad day. The most popular theory of the origin of the festival is that it was derived from the activities commemorating a great patriotic poet, Qu Yuan. The story about Qu Yuan has been deeply rooted in Chinese culture and this festival. Qu Yuan served in the court of Emperor Huai during the Warring States (475 - 221 BC). He was a wise and erudite man. His ability and fight against corruption antagonised other court officials. They exerted their evil influence on the Emperor, so the Emperor gradually dismissed Qu Yuan and eventually exiled him. During his exile, Qu Yuan did not give up. He travelled extensively, taught and wrote about his ideas. His works, the Lament (Li Sao), the Nine Chapters (Jiu Zhang), and Wen tian, are masterpieces and invaluable for studying ancient Chinese culture. He saw the gradual decline of his mother country, the Chu State. When he heard that the Chu State was defeated by the strong Qin State, he was so depressed that he ended his life by flinging himself into the Miluo River. Legend says after people heard he drowned, they were greatly dismayed. Fishermen raced to the spot in their boats to search for his body. Unable to find his body, people threw zongzi, eggs and other food into the river to feed fish as a distraction, while hoping to salvage his body. Since then, people started to commemorate Qu Yuan through dragon boat races, eating zongzi and other activities, on the anniversary of his death, the 5th day of the 5th month. Zongzi is the most popular food of the festival, and is a special kind of dumpling. It is usually made of glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo leaves. Fresh bamboo leaves are the best for the wrapping since the taste and smell of the fresh bamboo leaves is part of zongzi. Unfortunately fresh bamboo leaves are hard to find.
    Meanwhile, back on Duonita, Meryl could be seen in all sorts of weird, awkward poses as she pursued her new found career in mosquito spotting and eradicating. When she appeared to be dreamily staring into space, she was actually scanning every inch of the boat looking for them. She emitted yelps of joy as another of the little demons bit the dust.
    The sound of the beating drum returned, and the "Dragon Boat" glided by, with all the crew looking as though they had had a good workout. Then the rains came.
    I remember the constant drone of an endless convoy of planes fly overhead through the pitter-patter of the rain. We were on the flight path for Schiphol airport.


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Gouda Leiden
Last updated 4.9.2015