Netherlands Trip - Leeuwarden      17th June:

Carved Wooden Shirt at Art Fair

    Under a grey overcast sky with the promise of rain, we caught a train to Leeuwarden. We sped through vast tracts of farmland, lush meadows occasionally populated by cattle, sheep and horses. Masts betrayed a network of canals threading their way across the landscape. In no time at all we were in Leeuwarden, a delightful city that we had sailed through in 2013.
    This university city is the capital of Friesland and one of the historical eleven cities. Leeuwarden developed out of three terp or hill settlements that originally stood on an expanse of water known as the Middelzee. These merged in 1435 and were granted a municipal charter. Thereafter the town grew into an important trading centre. With the silting up of the Middelzee, however, the town lost its harbour and became instead an agricultural market town and the chief centre of the Ostergos region. From 1524 to 1580 the town was the seat of the Habsburg Stadholder, who was succeeded from 1584 to 1747 by Stadholders of the Nassau-Dietz family. In the 16th-18th centuries Leeuwarden was famed for its fine gold and silverware. Nowadays Leeuwarden is a modern city with a mostly 16th century city centre, with many canals and city walls (the structure of the city walls looks like a diamond) and museums. The city has a laidback provincial air, its centre a haphazard blend of modern glass and traditional gabled terraces overlooking canals. It perhaps lacks the concentrated historic charm of many other Dutch cities, but it's an amiable old place.
    We marched up to Wilhelminaplein where we found an art fair set up. Here a large range of arts and crafts stalls were lined up covering a range of styles in painting, drawing, sculpture, textiles and photography. Rex was particularly taken by one old man's pen and ink drawings of trees. Another chap was selling wooden construction kits for tractors, steam engines, wagons, trams etc. Some artistic styles intrigued me, others left me cold. I chatted to one lady whose style I appreciated, and learned she had come all the way across from the German border to exhibit her art at her stall.

De Waag on Waagplein

"Us Heit" (Our Father), Frisian Governer Willem Lodewijk 1560-1620

    We ambled along streets familiar to us, past the Waag, the pretty Frisian Renaissance building (1595-1598), and up to the Hofplein where the classical baroque style Stadhuis stood, closely guarded by Willem Lodewijk.

Stadhuis

    We took a stroll to take a peek at Oldehove, the unfinished 16th century, 40m high, leaning tower, before stopping for a coffee in Kleine Kerkstraat. A Dutch lad served us, whose father we discovered came from Rotherhithe. He kindly complimented Rex on his excellent Dutch; Rex was over the moon, almost performing somersaults despite his delicate back. We sipped and ate paninis, watching the world walk by in front of us. The folk here were definitely a breed apart from those in Harlingen. A musical event was being held in a cordoned off area in the large square in front of the Oldehove, the large Leaning Tower which featured as a landmark in the city. Young folk in strange costumes passed us as they headed to this event, two of them dressed as transvestites. It was all a happy, colourful, joyous affair.

Rex Loitering with Intent outside Mata Hari's House

    Suitably refreshed, we headed in an easterly direction, passing Mata Hari's house on the way. The legendary dancer and spy Mata Hari (1876-1917) lived in Leeuwarden for the first fifteen years of her life. Margarethe Geertruida Zelle, as was her real name, was born at no. 33 De Kelders. Her father Adam Zelle ran a hat business underneath. When he became rich on the stock market, the family moved to this impressive corner house at the highest point in Leeuwarden. The Zelle family lived here from 1883 to 1889.
    In Paris, years later, in 1905, Margareet became the exotic dancer Mata Hari. Six months after making her debut she was already internationally known and a much-requested courtesan. However, in 1917 her (alleged) activities as a spy proved fatal to her. At the age of 41 years, she was shot by a French army firing squad just outside Paris.
    A short way along from the house stood The Grote of Jacobijnerkerk, the High or Jacobean Church. Around 1245, a Dominican monastery was erected on the north-east edge of the terp Nijehove. Shortly after 1264, a church was built. In 1310 the north aisle was completed, but it was destroyed by a fire in 1392.
    The building was reconstructed and in the 15th century the place of worship was expanded with three side chapels on the south side and a full bay on the west side. Around 1500, the church received a spire and another few years later a sacristy was built in the south-west corner.
    In 1580, the church became the cathedral for Leeuwarden. Many elements reminiscent of the Catholic service were removed or plastered over. The only thing left of the original monastic complex is the "Sexton's house", north of the church. The interior of the choir is decorated with leaded windows which illuminate the history of the houses of Nassau-Dietz and Oranje-Nassau. The gallery from 1695, an elevated seat for the Stadtholder, the crypt (1588) and monument are reminders of the Frisian Nassaus. The pipe organ, built between 1724-1727 by Christain Muller, also adds to the splendid interior.
    In the past, many distinguished citizens had their own Seats in the church, the same was true for the Stadtholder and his following. In 1695, the city council gave Hendrik Casimir II permission to build a covered gallery. This "royal" gallery was put back in its original location in 1977, opposite to, and higher than, the pulpits.
    In 1588, Willem Lodewijk obtained permission to inter his wife Anna van Oranje, who passed away at an early age, in the choir of the church. In 1591, the Stadtholder erected a mausoleum of black marble on top of the crypt. He was later given his own monument: an alabaster statue of the kneeling Stadtholder, with the symbolic figures of "Perseverance" and "Providence" beside him. Until 1696, the crypt in the choir was used as a final resting-place for the Frisian Nassaus. Afterwards, the supulture north of the choir was used. During the revolutionary insurrection of 1795, this heritage site was badly vandalised.
    In 1948, a new entrance to the crypt and a new tomb in memory of Anna van Oranje were created. The monument of Willem Lodewijk now adorns the walls of the church as a grisaille with the escutcheons of the Stadtholder's family.

The Grote or Jacobijnerkerk

    Just across from the church stood a Jewish school with a monument standing before it. Before the Second World War, Leeuwarden had a thriving Jewish congregation. But of the 655 Jewish people living in Leeuwarden, the majority of whom resided in the ancient city centre, more than 550 were murdered by the Nazis. Their existence was wiped out and their names were obliterated in a gruesome war.
    The monument was unveiled on 11th May 1987, 42 years after the liberation. It commemorates the tragedy of the persecution of the Jews from 1940-45 that cost the lives of six million Jews in Europe and brought an end to the centuries of Jewish life in the capital of Friesland. The monument is an enlarged version of a mezuzah, the small rolled scroll with a biblical text that pious Jews nail to their doorposts.

Jewish School and Jewish Monument

Nieuwe Stadsweeshuis

    Just across from the school lay the Nieuwe Stadsweeshuis (New City Orphanage). Prior to 1675 there had already been a home for orphans of citizens of Leeuwarden: the Old Burgerweeshuis. But for the increasing number of "buitenwezen" - children of city residents without civil rights - the Nieuw Stadsweeshuis officially opened on 24th January 1676. The building served as an orphanage until 1953, occasionally housing more than 300 children! The most original room of the building, the guardians' room, is to the left of the classicist main gateway. The west wing - main entrance to the Natural History Museum - is a "new construction" from 1888, in Flemish mannerist style.

Gateway to Boshuizen-Gasthuis

    In the same square as the church monument and Weeshuis, a delightful secret lay hidden behind a gateway, the Boshuizen-Gasthuis. The outer gate led through to an inner gate above which the initials AVE and the year of construction MCDLII (1652) have been carved. Walking through the gates into a gorgeous courtyard and sniffing the atmosphere was akin to walking back in time. The guesthouse was founded in 1652 by Anna van Eysinga (1594-1655), a member of the noble family of Eysinga. She was the widow of Philip van Boshuizen. On the side walls of the outer gate is the inscription: It's not standing here, you're often hated but not obscured. Until consolation of conscience and widow's consolation, it has been built. At that time, it was built as a shelter for poor widows. The ladies were allowed to receive guests, but their visitors should not stay overnight. The gate was located in the ring wall of the Jacobijnerkerkhof until 1830. Today the homes have been modernised and are (again) inhabited.

New St. Anthony Guesthouse

    A short detour from the square brought us to a collection of buildings. The New St. Anthony Guesthouse was opened on 1st May 1846 and comprises five buildings. The four wings were named after benefactors of the guesthouse: Burmania-, Minnema-, Auckema- and Wiarda-wing.

1854 Centraal Apotheek

    We cut across town and ended up standing for a while gazing up at the towering St Bonifatiuskerk, a neo-Gothic church built by P. J. H. Cuypers in 1882-84. During a hurricane in 1977 the upper portion of the steeple was completely torn off and fell to the ground. In the 1980's the 78m steeple was rebuilt, this time using a steel construction. When we were here in 2013 it was closed, not so today. We took the opportunity to wander around this grand building.

St Bonifatiuskerk

    Outside our attention was drawn by a vintage car that pulled up alongside us, its contents comprising a smartly dressed young man who acted as chauffer, and a family of two parents plus two daughters. They had stopped for a photoshoot in front of the church. I managed to get talking with the young driver, who informed me that it was the father's birthday, and the family had booked the ride in the 1928 vintage vehicle as a present. The car belonged to The Other Museum from Oldtimer to Lace, which he pointed out on a map I had. The family piled back into the car, and off they went, the driver obliviously driving the wrong way down a one-way street.

Kanselarij

    Not far from the tall church was one of the loveliest buildings in town, the Kanselarij, now part of the Fries Museum. The Chancellery for the Court of Friesland was built between 1566-71, and displays late-Gothic elements. The statue of Charles V, on the top gable, presides over the administrative, legal and military powers. The facade also has statues of the Seven Virtues and prosperity. Construction concurred with the beginning of the revolt against Spanish rule, resulting in financial shortages. As a result, a desired extension on the south side to ensure the symmetry of the building could not be realised. Several Renaissance style elements at the entrance already heralded a new era. The balcony with its double stairway and heavy parapet, decorated with the four quarters of the States of Friesland, dates from 1624.
    The Court was disbanded in 1795, after which the building was used as a law court, military hospital, barracks and prison. In 1895, it housed the Provincial Council Archives and the Provincial Library. In 1995, the building became part of the Fries Museum.
    Since we were in the near vicinity of The Other Museum from Oldtimer to Lace, we headed across to it, and were treated to a tour by the proud owner, an aging, knowledgeable, enthusiastic man who exuded passion for the collection he had built up over many years. His English was excellent.

Vintage Car

Men with Bad Backs use Stair Lifts

    The museum is inside an old 19th century warehouse, attached to a normal house built in 1872. The house was built for the Dutch trader Hajonides van der Meulen. The museum started as a private collection. The two owners turned the museum into a resting place for their collections, now available to the public.
    The museum has a large collection of pre-war cars featuring old-timers from several big European brands such as Peugeot, Renault and Citroën. Apart from those there were some less known brands such as Singer, MG and DKW. Included are several American old-timers from Ford and Chrysler. Stories recounted the bitter rivalry between a French and a Dutch car manufacturer, the first car accident with fatal consequences in the Netherlands, the first Bond car, the success story of Henry Ford and many more. Post-war classics mostly consisted of English, Swedish and Dutch cars. For example the collection included a Rolls Royce and a Bentley, two Volvos and several Daffs, and a Dutch brand. Aside from those there were some less known brands such as Gogomobile and Sunbeam. The cars from the collection have travelled all across the world. An example is the story about a couple that put their young relationship to the test by journeying across Africa for three years. The owners have also driven a lot of rallies themselves, leading to some interesting adventures. The longest rallies they have accomplished are one from the Netherlands to China and a trip around Southern America.

Vintage Cars in the Museum

    The chap's wife had a passion for lace, so naturally there was a lace section to the museum. A year round exhibition was "A Lace Journey through Europe". This exhibition consisted of pieces of lace and lace working tools from all over Europe. A separate room had been converted into the Marie Louise chamber, which told the story of Marie-Louise, lovingly called aunty May in Leeuwarden. Marie-Louise of Hessen Kassel married Prince Johan Willem Friso in 1709. This union entered her into the ranks of Dutch royalty. With the untimely death of her husband in 1711 she became the regent of not just Leeuwarden but the entirety of the Dutch republic. Because of her blood ties to royalty all over Europe she is not only ancestress to the Dutch royal family but also to those of all the major European monarchies. Because of this she is called Marie-Louise, princess of Europe.

Model Trains in the Museum

    The museum had two model train tracks from the German manufacturer LGB. LGB made model trains and other toys from the start of the 20th century. With a scale of 1:22, the LGB trains are the largest model trains made. Tracks were hanging from the ceiling. The bottom track contained a collection of silent trains, an assortment of mostly Dutch trains, a few of which had been specially hand made for the museum. The upper track contained the most luxurious trains. These trains made all the sounds their life size counterparts would make. The train carriages were lit up from the inside and in the seats miniature people enjoyed their ride. There were also some models from well-known trains such as the Swiss Rhätische Bahn and the American Southern Pacific.
    The Meccano collection is the latest addition to the museum. Examples of what was on show were a Meccano Eifel tower that had an elevator that moved up and down and a Ferris wheel with lights and two wheels that rotated separately from one another. Also in this section were a Meccano Bugatti, a Meccano radio, and a unique Meccano train that was built in a period of six months.
    The museum had a wide collection of radios from Philips and Minerva, and a collection of classic design radios from the 30s up to the first radios that were made following World War 2. In the beginning, the shell of the radios was only used to protect the insides. Later, however, radios became pieces of well-designed furniture that were an important part of the household.
    This excellent museum really held our attention for quite a while. It was a well-run family business (we discovered later that the chauffer of the classic car was the owner's son). We headed back to Wilhelminaplein where we enjoyed a couple of beers to ease Rex's back aches before we caught a train back to Harlingen. It had done us good to venture out from Harlingen again, and the university city of Leeuwarden had provided an excellent contrast.
    In the evening as we strolled down Voorstraat, a voice shouted out to us from a table just by the entrance to one of the many restaurants along this main thoroughfare. It was from the waitress we had chatted to at the ferry terminal bar/restaurant. She was sitting with two of her friends having a drink and chinwag. The lady had remembered us, and enquired about Rex's back. "Did you enjoy the music festival in the street today?" she asked.
    "What music festival? We did not know it was on, and have spent the day in Leeuwarden," we replied.
    "Not to worry, there will be another one tomorrow," she informed us.
    On our way back to the boat we stopped off at a bar for a beer and chin wag. Rex was getting rather concerned that we may run out of things to do cooped up in Friesland. I explained that I had no issues with that, pointing out that we could go via train to Leeuwarden again and even Groningen. Without mincing words, I put forward my view that it was far more important to stay put and give his back a chance to heal. Crossing back over to North Holland sounded appealing to Rex, but to my way of thinking this may set his back further than it currently was. No doubt the issue will surface again in the near future, and again I'd put forward all the logical reasons for staying where we are.