This was a truly epic sailing trip. At 2834 nautical miles (3262 miles), over 80 days, it was the longest sea journey I had ever undertaken. The overland stretches added an extra 680 miles onto the trek.
It wasn't just a mission to clock up a stupendous distance, it was also a voyage of discovery. Before the journey, for me the Baltic states were lands that I knew had suffered terrible hardships during the last war, and untold misery under Russian iron-fist rule afterwards. As we traveled around, I sought to get a better understanding of the region, firstly from museums and literature, but more importantly from those who lived there. The latter option was not at all an easy task in some areas; English was not as widely spoken as presupposed, indeed in one town it was not spoken at all.
In the days when Britain was sending its Crusaders off to distant lands, the Germans were sending Teutonic Knights to rule the Baltic lands. Rule subsequently passed to Sweden and Russia in the northern latitudes, whilst Germany maintained control over the southern states we visited. Brief periods of independence, punctuated by foreign occupations during the wars, paved the way for Russia to extend its sphere of influence over these lands for almost another half century.
The crushing oppression the peoples had to suffer under Russian domination was sickening, and I could understand why so many had risked their lives on makeshift rafts and boats fleeing across to Sweden. The oppression was still etched into the faces of those who had lived through it. For these individuals who had to endure mistrust of all but family and close friends, the isolation was ingrained into their consciousness, and eye contact with others outside their close circle was almost non-existent. Where contact had to be made in shops and restaurants, there was a reserved friendliness. However, Russian officials carried on the tradition of presenting a rude and aggressive public front.
The recovery after the steps into independence in 1991 varied from country to country, depending on how much Russian influence was still in power. Estonia fared well, having removed most of the Russians, but Latvia and Lithuania still had a strong Russian presence in positions of power, and associated with that presence was corruption.
Removal of Russian rule also brought about the end of 100% employment boasted by the Soviets. Older folk preferred Russian control since it guaranteed them work. Young folk learned of the horrors of foreign rule from parents and grandparents, and valued their freedom. However, there was little work for them, and they often saw working abroad as the only option for a better life; rather sad for countries trying to get themselves established again.
As for the lands we visited, on the whole they were green and pleasant; often heavily forested. The main tourist cities were stunning, but the lesser known towns did strive to make themselves appealing too. Often they inherited drab Soviet era architecture, and I guess they were stuck with it for a while since they did not have the luxury of heavy investment for demolish and redevelopment exercises.
A big unknown for me was how would I cope with being cooped up in a small boat with others for almost three months. On my Rockies trip, I travelled alone mostly, though I did come across some wonderful people on my trek, and I savoured the freedom to do as I pleased without having to compromise. However, sailing on a small craft and working as a team was a different kettle of fish. It was straightforward in the early stage of the trip, three being a good number for harmony, and with Rex's endless banter, it was a hoot. However, on Rex's departure leaving the two of us for the rest of the long trek, I wondered how it would work out. Alan and I had sailed together as a pair before, but never for such a long trip as this. Whilst at sea, we soon slipped into a routine of watch/sleep, with our paths crossing during changeovers and meal times. In port, since these were new lands for me to explore, I was always itching to head off for many miles at a brisk pace in order to cram in as much as possible. The potential conflict here was my knowledge that Alan's legs were not up to the punishment I would subject myself to. I think Alan sensed this and understood my need to tear about, so that we would more than often start off an exploration together, and when he had enough, he would head off back to the boat and excuse me while I hurtled around. That was indeed kind of him, and perhaps selfish of me. It all worked out in the end, and we didn't come to blows.
To conclude, the trip was a wonderful, exciting, learning experience. I felt privileged to be part of it, and the memories will stay with me for a long, long time. I take my hat off to the good company I was with: Rex, Dan who joined us in Russia, and in particular the skipper, Alan.
Long may the adventures continue.
