We were up bright and early, the cool morning air was refreshing.
Colourful Tug
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Our sail along the canal was fairly leisurely, apart from the occasional ferry darting out across our bow. It was noticeable that there were many more small lighters going about their business on the canal than there used to be. I always get a kick travelling along this stretch of the canal buzzing with activity.
Zeemnsn op de Uitkijk (Seaman on the Lookout)
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As we approached the Oranjesluizen, the locks providing our gateway out to the Markermeer, we hugged the northern bank of the Ij; the Sport craft lock is the most northern lock. We were graced with that rare sight, the lights for the lock entry turning green as we approached., and we followed two large motor boats into the lock. The Oranjesluizen (Orange Locks) separate the Closed IJ from the Buiten-IJ. They regulate the water level of the North Sea Canal and ensure that there is not too much salt water flowing into the Markermeer from the North Sea Canal.
Once secured inside the lock, an enormous din erupted in the larger lock beside us. A huge barge was starting her engine. The engine at the stern shaked, rattled and rolled with great gusto. Then I noticed the barge owner's wife prise the barge out of the lock while her husband carried out some tasks on the decks.
500m after the lock was the Zuiderzeeweg road bridge over the canal. We new it would be closed to masted vessels between 7am - 9am; commuter rush hour traffic took priority. After 9am the bridge opened at 20 mins and 50 mins past the hour. We arrived just at the right time for an opening. Luck was on our side today.
Durgerdam
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Vuurtoreneiland Lighthouse
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Once through we headed on past Durgerdam towards the Vuurtoreneiland Lighthouse. The island of Vuurtoreneiland, just off Durgerdam, is a beautiful private island in the Markermeer. The original lighthouse on the island was built three centuries ago and is the only lighthouse in Amsterdam. The island is set up as a nature preserve and there are plans to restore the fort there so that visitors can experience it. It is possible to take a boat from the city to the island to enjoy a meal at the restaurant there. I always look forward to passing this point since it marks the start of the Markermeer to me.
Dredger Removing the Pinch Point
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The green/red buoys marking the channel converged to a pinch point here, an obvious hazzard to speeding barges. Today we observed a dredger scooping up huge bucketfuls of mud and water, which were systematically dumped into an attendant barge. We surmised the pinch was being taken out of the pinch point, and the channel widened.
Het Paard van Marken (The Horse Of Marken) Lighthouse
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We set a course of 40 degrees, and had time to spare to sort out the reefs on the main sail. Then we motor-sailed since the breeze was not strong enough to zip us through the water.
Rex spotted the dreaded weed in the water; we were not keen to get that wrapped around our prop. We kept the same course, but shifted it a few hundred metres to the east to avoid the coastal weed. Another nuisance was hundreds of tiny flies converging on the boat. Had Rex been wise in trying to get rid of all the onboard spiders?
Soon we were passing by Marken. Het Paard van Marken (The Horse Of Marken) Lighthouse was always a welcome waypoint of this leg of a journey. Built in 1839 by J. Valk, it lay on the Dutch peninsula, Marken, on the Markermeer. A primitive lighthouse had been on the location since the early 18th century. The current lighthouse has been a Rijksmonument since 1970.
Sailing up the Markermeer
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A bit of a breeze blew up, but it was nothing to write home about. There was a wait to get through the sluis at Enkhuizen, a large trimaran in front didn't help. This sluis was located at the western end of the Markerwaarddijk, and another sluis lay at the eastern end of the dyke at Lelystad. The Markerwaarddijk separates the Markermeer from the Ijsselmeer, and acts as an insurance policy. Should the sea breach the Afsluitdijk at the northern end of the Ijsselmeer, the Markerwaarddijk would still serve to protect Amsterdam and other towns from flooding.
Vessel under Sail on the Markermeer
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Once through we turned off into Compagnieshaven Marina, a place we have stayed at many times before. We immediately made a beeline for the fuel station. "Good, there is nobody already there!" exclaimed Rex. We wanted to use pump 3, the diesel pump. To kick start the operation we needed to prime the payment station that we were about to load up with fuel from pump 3. The station didn't even acknowledge pump 3's existence.
Cost of Diesel!
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I traipsed off to find the harbour master to pay our dues, and explained the difficulties we were having at the fuelling station. The kind chap came down to help, and spotted the problem; a previous customer hadn't replaced the fuel nozzle properly. He rectified this, then after the refuel it was a simple card and pin job to make the payment. But the payment station had a fit. The man advised that at times when this happens, rather than insert the card into the pin reader, it is often better just to tap the card reader. This worked! However, Rex almost fainted, indeed he turned a cool shade of green. The price of diesel was 2.76 Euros/litre. "There you go," laughed the harbour master.
Rex Striding Out to Zwaanstraat Bridge
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Safely berthed, I filled the water tank up. This water was free. But it was pointed out that using water to clean decks would cost 50 Euros. How times have changed.
Now it was time to reflect on Enkhuizen. The town was formerly known as the Herring City because of its long association with the herring fishery. It was the administrative centre of Friesland until 1289, when western Friesland became part of the County of Holland. Count Floris V granted the town its municipal charter in 1355, and thereafter it began to flourish. It was one of the harbour-towns of the VOC, just like Hoorn and Amsterdam, from where overseas trade with the East Indies was conducted. The town walls were built around 1550 and strengthened in the early 17th century. Enkhuizen was one of the first towns to revolt against Spanish rule in 1572. Its ships, along with those of Hoorn, Edam and Monnickendam, took part in the naval battle in October 1573 in which a Spanish fleet commanded by Admiral Bossu was defeated. The population fell sharply after an outbreak of plague in 1636. In the mid-17th century, Enkhuizen was at the peak of its power and was one of the most important harbour cities in the Netherlands. However, due to a variety of reasons, notably the silting up of the harbours, Enkhuizen lost its position to Amsterdam.
When we recovered our senses, we headed into town through quaint streets we had walked many times before. We crossed the Oosterhaven by the Zwaanstraat Bridge and shortly arrived at the Stadhuis.
Stadhuis
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The 17th century town hall is the first example of the pileless architecture, which was introduced in the Netherlands after 1672. The town hall was built in 1686-1688 to a design by the Amsterdam architect Steven Vennekool, a student of Jacob van Campen. There is therefore some similarity between the Enkhuizer city hall and the palace on Dam Square in Amsterdam. The building has been altered very little since then, with an elegant, Neo-classical facade. It is still used by the city council even today. To the left of the entrance stands a cannon cast in Mechelen, captured in 1622 from Dunkirk hijackers. Vondel describes this event in a poem that hangs above the cannon. On the balcony in the opened law book, is a replica of the certificate for granting the Poortrecht to Enkhuizen on April 4, 1356 by the count of Holland. "Candide et Constater" on the facade means "Righteous and Persevering".
St Pancraskerk
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The tall St Pancraskerk towered above the town. Dating from the early 15th century, the tower was built in 1450 and heightened between 1518 and 1526 by the addition of an octagonal upper section and an onion dome. I remember one Tuesday years ago, walking past this very church, and coming across two old dears, seated outside on chairs, overlooking the church. I learned that on certain Tuesdays there is an extended bell-ringing session, and people travel for miles to come and listen to the music.
Mustard Soup at Dubbel & Dwars
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We strolled down Torenstraat, passing a mixture of small commercial premisses and immaculately kept residences. We eventually ended up at a main crossroad in the town where we had often eaten at the Dubbel & Dwars on the corner of the street. We struck it lucky and secured a table. We had discovered this restaurant in 2019, and it never let us down. As well as serving good ale and food, it is an excellent place to observe life. As a bonus, the staff always gave Rex the opportunity to polish up his Dutch language again. The young waitress who served us had a good sense of humour.
"We learn to speak English at school," she said. "I can speak English, but I can't read it," she laughed.
"But can you write it?" asked Rex. She giggled. We ordered a beer each before ordering food, and as that amber nectar hit the spot, I thought of how earlier we had whinged at spending 2.75 Euros/litre of diesel, and here we were now drinking beer at 15.50 Euros/litre. Puts it into context really. The food was good.
Enjoying Beers at the Dubbel & Dwars
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A short walk down the Dijk by the Oude Haven brought us to the Drommedaris. The tower still stood as proud as ever, a relic of the town's fortifications (1540). The tower, which was heightened in 1649, has a carillon by the Hemony brothers which ranks among the finest in the Netherlands. It served at one time as a prison, and some of the cells can still be seen. Here the history of the East India Company, known as VOC, in Enkhuizen is still clearly visible. The VOC was in the 17th and 18th centuries the largest trading company in the world, and its magnificent ships travelled to Asian countries to trade. The convenient location on the Ijsselmeer made it an attractive to settle. A "Chamber of the VOC", The Drommedaris, the defence tower on the harbour, and the centre of the historic buildings, reminded us of this prosperous time.
Drommedaris by the Oude Haven
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An early night was called for; we needed to make an early start in the morning in order to catch the right tide in the Waddenzee.
